2009 オベール ピノ・ノワール UV-SLヴィンヤード
2009 オベール ピノ・ノワール UV-SLヴィンヤード
2009 Aubert Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard
アントニオ・ガッローニ 96 Points
"The 2009 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard is dazzling. It reveals all of the qualities that make Pinot here so compelling. In the 2009 I find expressive aromatics that meld seamlessly into the fruit, not to mention a gracious yet powerful personality. A super-refined finish has the last say in this moving, breathtaking wine. The UV-SL vineyard is just four miles from the Pacific Ocean. There is an energy and vitality in the wine I find totally irresistible. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020.
This is a stunning set of wines from Mark Aubert. Both the Chardonnays and Pinots developed considerably over the time I followed them. Readers should open the wines at least several hours in advance. In general, the 2010s are brighter and more focused than the 2009s, which are more generous. Alcohol levels are also lower across the board in 2010. The Chardonnays spend 10-12 months in barrel, followed by 2 months in oak, and are usually bottled around Christmas. The cellar is kept cold to encourage slow malos, which occur in the spring. The wines are never racked until they are prepared for bottling with no fining or filtration. The Pinots begin their vinification with cold soaks that last 5-6 days. The wines are only racked when they are bottled, which usually takes place in September. Aubert describes his Pinots as largely inspired by his experiences with the Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines he made at a number of properties, including Colgin, Sloan, Bryant and Futo, which remains his only consulting client. Stylistically, the Pinots are big, bold and highly expressive. Much the same can be said of the Chardonnays. The 2010 Pinots are more pointed and vibrant than the 2009s, a year in which the fruit ripened evenly as there were no rains."
(Wine Advocate #199 Feb 2012 アントニオ・ガッローニ[Antonio Galloni] Drink: 2014 - 2020)
ロバート・パーカー 93 Points
"The dark ruby/plum-tinged 2009 Pinot Noir UVSL Vineyard possesses crisp acids as well as sweet notes of black cherries, raspberries, blueberries, spring flowers and a hint of forest floor, and an attractive, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel. It will drink well for 5-8 years.
Mark Aubert’s brilliant Chardonnays continue to place this winery in California’s top Chardonnay hierarchy, sharing the same rarified air as Marcassin, Kongsgaard, Peter Michael, Luc Morlet, Kistler, Hartford Court and DuMol. These cool climate, usually hillside sites on the Sonoma Coast are cropped low, the wines are fermented in new French oak and bottled without fining or filtration. I am on Aubert’s mailing list, and while I never seem to have enough wines to age very long, a recent tasting of his 2004s revealed them to still be in splendid condition. With a few noteworthy exceptions, aging California Chardonnay beyond a decade is a fool’s game, but certain older Marcassin and Mt. Eden Chardonnays have impressively stood the test of time. I am sure Aubert’s would also, but who can defer their gratification that long?"
(Wine Advocate #193 Feb 2011 ロバート・パーカー[Robert Parker ] Drink: 2011-2019)
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