2009 オベール ピノ・ノワール リウリング・ヴィンヤード
2009 オベール ピノ・ノワール リウリング・ヴィンヤード
2009 Aubert Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard
アントニオ・ガッローニ 95 Points
"The 2009 Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard emerges from the glass with freshly cut flowers, spices, tar, black cherries and plums. High-toned floral notes add lift and brightness throughout. Hints of sweet herbs and tobacco wrap around the finish. The Reuling is planted with the Calera clone and a suitcase clone from Vosne-Romanee, which in this vintage seems to give the wine an exotic, spiced dimension that is totally intriguing. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020.
This is a stunning set of wines from Mark Aubert. Both the Chardonnays and Pinots developed considerably over the time I followed them. Readers should open the wines at least several hours in advance. In general, the 2010s are brighter and more focused than the 2009s, which are more generous. Alcohol levels are also lower across the board in 2010. The Chardonnays spend 10-12 months in barrel, followed by 2 months in oak, and are usually bottled around Christmas. The cellar is kept cold to encourage slow malos, which occur in the spring. The wines are never racked until they are prepared for bottling with no fining or filtration. The Pinots begin their vinification with cold soaks that last 5-6 days. The wines are only racked when they are bottled, which usually takes place in September. Aubert describes his Pinots as largely inspired by his experiences with the Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines he made at a number of properties, including Colgin, Sloan, Bryant and Futo, which remains his only consulting client. Stylistically, the Pinots are big, bold and highly expressive. Much the same can be said of the Chardonnays. The 2010 Pinots are more pointed and vibrant than the 2009s, a year in which the fruit ripened evenly as there were no rains."
(Wine Advocate #199 Feb 2012 アントニオ・ガッローニ[Antonio Galloni] Drink: 2014 - 2020)
ロバート・パーカー 93 Points
"The 2009 Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard, which comes from a clone from one of Burgundy’s most famous Vosne-Romanee vineyards as well as the Calera clone, exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, a cool climate, raspberry and red cherry-scented bouquet, hints of bluer fruits in the mouth, lots of depth and richness, and good acidity, spice and elegance. This medium to full-bodied 2009 is not as powerful and rich as the 2008 and 2007, and in that sense it is more Burgundian texturally and weight-wise.
Mark Aubert’s brilliant Chardonnays continue to place this winery in California’s top Chardonnay hierarchy, sharing the same rarified air as Marcassin, Kongsgaard, Peter Michael, Luc Morlet, Kistler, Hartford Court and DuMol. These cool climate, usually hillside sites on the Sonoma Coast are cropped low, the wines are fermented in new French oak and bottled without fining or filtration. I am on Aubert’s mailing list, and while I never seem to have enough wines to age very long, a recent tasting of his 2004s revealed them to still be in splendid condition. With a few noteworthy exceptions, aging California Chardonnay beyond a decade is a fool’s game, but certain older Marcassin and Mt. Eden Chardonnays have impressively stood the test of time. I am sure Aubert’s would also, but who can defer their gratification that long?"
(Wine Advocate #193 Feb 2011 ロバート・パーカー[Robert Parker ] Drink: NA)
|ワイン評価スコアの レンジ||90 - 95|